Georgian Sparkling Wines: Bubbles for Any Occasion
Sparkling wines from Georgia have quite a long story, but the wine lovers from the UK started exploring them very recently. While it’s hard to beat Champagne and English sparkling on such a traditional market, Georgian bubbly is trying to establish itself in the niche of a quality wine with a touch of the exotic. Let’s explore it together!
Historical Overview
The relationship between Georgians and sparkling wines is truly strange. While the 17th-century chronicler Vakhushti Batonishvili clearly described the making of sparkling wine in qvevri typical for the Ateni Valley, and the nobleman Ivane Mukhranbatoni established sparkling production in the 19th century, the majority of modern-day Georgians prefer to drink it only for Christmas and New Year.
The reason for it is hidden in the quite recent history. Back in the USSR era, Georgia used to be one of the production hubs for so-called Soviet Champagne, an industrial tank-method sparkling. The base wine for it was made from Tsitska, Chinuri, Goruli Mtsvane, Aligote, and Chardonnay grapes, all grown in Georgia and quite often transported to other Soviet republics for the final part of the production.
As you can imagine, long-distance transportation influenced the quality of wine, but it didn’t matter much for an average working-class person, as long as the wine was sweet and explosively bubbly.
Amplified by the amount of consumption, those infamous intense bubbles, a moderate (not too low!) level of alcohol, and sweetness that made the “Soviet champagne” very easy to drink, contributed to absolutely legendary morning headaches.
These hangovers seem to have left their traces in the generations, because only the last wave of Millennials finally started buying sparkling wine for simple pleasure and casual parties, and not only for kick-starting the new year.
21st Century’s Bubbly
How does the sparkling wine industry of Georgia look nowadays? Several large companies make millions of bottles yearly, mostly in tanks. Bagrationi 1882, Badagoni, and Marani are the most notable ones. A number of small and medium-sized wineries make traditional and ancestral styles as well.
A kind of bubbly revolution happened around the early post-Covid period, when the local demand for easy-going natural sparklings (petillant naturel or pet-nat) grew, and many small wineries started producing this style, taking the shelves of the shops and menu positions by storm.
Georgian Wine UK talked to one of the leading sparkling wine winemakers, Giorgi Dakishvili, who makes award-winning sparkling for Mildiani, Schuchmann, Orgo, and Dakishvili Family Vineyards.
Giorgi, you’ve got decades of experience under your belt. Which Georgian varieties do you prefer to use for sparkling?
I really enjoy working with Mtsvane and Kisi - those Kakhetian varieties are quite aromatic, reach a good ripeness level without dropping acidity too much, and therefore, provide excellent balance.
Kartli and Imereti regions used to be famous for providing quality grapes for bubbles. However, the majority of the sparklings you create have grapes from Kakheti as a base.
There are so many stereotypes about Kakheti, but I am convinced that one just needs to pick the best sites. For example, I source my international grapes from Akura and Kondoli villages. Akura vineyard is located at 700 meters above the sea level, and has enough sun and enough coolness for my Pinot Noir to be ripe without losing elegance. My Kisi is from the slopes in Akhmeta, which is the top location for this grape due to its exposure to sun and wind.
What do you think about the development of sparkling wine production in Georgia nowadays?
It’s growing, not only volume-wise, but on the level of know-how, experience, and even equipment. I am happy to see more and more quality sparklings appearing on the artisanal level too: it’s proof that the knowledge is improving.
Any messages to the British customers?
You’ve got a booming sparkling industry, and maybe you’re a bit spoiled by quality bubbly. However, Georgian sparkling wine is worth trying! It’s got a different, special Georgian character. Give it a chance!
And here is the short list of Georgian sparklings available in the UK that you can buy and taste:
1. Mildiani Traditional Method Vintage Sparkling Brut 2015
Elegant and aged, this vintage Brut has fine bubbles and layers of green apple, toasted brioche, and lemon zest. A refined take on traditional method Georgian sparkling.
2. Shobili Qvevri Sparkling 2017 – Shumi
Made with qvevri fermentation, this is a rare sparkling wine with earthy complexity, ripe orchard fruit, and a dry, mineral-driven finish.
3. Dakishvili Kisi Pet-Nat 2021
A fresh, lightly wild pét-nat made from the Kisi grape. Expect peach fuzz, citrus peel, and white blossom. Bright, natural, and food-friendly.
4. Finest Brut – Bagrationi 1882
From Georgia’s most historic sparkling house, this bottle delivers crisp apple and citrus notes with a clean, refreshing finish. Classic traditional method elegance.
5. Tsitska Sparkling White Wine
Crafted from the Tsitska grape, this bubbly is bright and floral, with notes of pear, melon. Light and playful.
Hope you get to enjoy them soon!
