Nukri Kurdadze knows the big side of wine business: he had a successful career representing the wine brands of Pernod Ricard in Russia. On retirement, he followed his dream. With his son, Sandro, a philosophy graduate, he established a tiny, organic vineyard in the prize heart of Kakheti. Their winery is named after the valley in which it sits. Papari means ‘horse’s mane’ in Georgian, and the nestling hills ripple around the small (9 hectare) vineyard. All wines are made in Qvevri, from Saperavi and Rkatsiteli. Father and son developed a ‘terraced’ marani, in which the wine is transferred between Qvevri by gravity flow, without mechanical pumping. The low yielding organic vineyards and low intervention winemaking give wines of arresting depth, purity and vitality. No yeasts, enzymes or malolactic bacteria are added, and wines are bottled without fining or filtration. The sensitivity and generosity of the makers and their terroir shine though. Most of the production is Saperavi, made in a variety of styles, from dry to naturally sweet. Elegant Amber wines from Rkatsiteli showcase texture and concentration, with aromatic nuance and purity of fruit.