Precise and considered, Kakha Tchotiashvili is a quiet but inspiring force. His immaculate little marani is beautifully, almost sparsely, ordered. Kakha tolerates the surging interest in himself and his wines from the wine media. But he prefers to let the wine do the talking. He farms his family vineyards on organic principles, and makes tiny batches of exquisitive qvevri wines in red and amber styles. Kakha says that grape health, cleanliness, and relentless attention are the foundations of successful qvevri wine-making. He makes Amber wine from Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Kisi and (the rare but thrilling) Chitistvala. His amber wines are pure, fresh and scented, with floral notes, dried herbs, light spice, and a gorgeously sleek texture. Reds are elegant and insistent.