In a recent article in The Scotsman, Rose Murray Brown MW sheds light on the revitalization of Georgian wine, particularly in Western Georgia’s Samegrelo and Imereti regions. The story begins in an old ‘oda’ in Samegrelo, a traditional Mingrelian wooden house, belonging to Zaza Gagua and his wife Keto Ninidze. They moved from Tbilisi to revive local viticulture, replacing hazelnut groves with vines and burying new ‘lagvanis’ (local term for qvevris).
Samegrelo’s humid subtropical climate supports indigenous grapes, with a rich history of viticulture. Ninidze notes that, prior to the 1850s, there were 60 local grape varieties. However, challenges like phylloxera, world wars, and Soviet occupation led to a decline in winemaking, with only the red Ojaleshi grape surviving. Gagua and Ninidze aim to resurrect Mingrelian grapes, adapting to the volcanic and limestone-rich soils of Martvili.
Ninidze’s passion for natural winemaking, using wild yeasts and short skin contact, contrasts with practices in Eastern Georgia, leading to delicate wines. Their wines, sold under the Oda Wines/Oda Family Marani label, highlight this unique approach.
In contrast, the Imereti region, east of Samegrelo, offers a cooler, wetter climate. Local white grapes like Tsolikouri and Tsitska are fermented in ‘churi’ (Imeretian qvevri), often only partially buried due to high water tables. The resulting wines share a fresh, delicate character with those from Samegrelo.
The article also spotlights Baia’s Wine, a family-run winery in Imereti, led by the Abuladze family. Despite initial challenges, their dedication to organic natural wines has positioned them as notable newcomers. Their wines, alongside other artisanal offerings from Imereti and Samegrelo, showcase the potential of these regions, indicating a bright future for Western Georgian wine.
Rose Murray Brown is a Master of Wine, and noted wine writer and educator. A keen supporter of Georgian wine, Rose recently took a group of wine connoisseurs on an enotourism holiday to Georgia.
You can read the full article, enlivened by Rose’s own photographs, online.
